Boudoir photo-shoots make a great present for someone you love or why not bring them along for a couples photo- shoot.

Boudoir photo-shoots are £320 and for this you get an Italian digital album with the finest prints inside.

Want to know more about the boudoir experience ? click here

Used my Nikon D700 on aperture priority mode and ISO around 2600 or thereabouts. Jumer photography are pet portrait photographers and if your would like some special moments captured with your pets then give us a call today!!

Jumer photography loves to photograph and video stuff and nothing can look as spectacular as a firework display this 5th of november and if you are out to take some photos then here are a few tips to keep you going.

1. Use a Tripod

Perhaps the most important tip is to secure your digital camera to something that will ensure it doesn’t move during the taking of your shots. This is especially important in photographing fireworks simply because you’ll be using longer shutter speeds which will not only capture the movement of the fireworks but any movement of the camera itself. The best way to keep your camera still is with a tripod

2. Remote Release

One way to ensure your camera is completely still during fireworks shots is to invest in a remote release device. These will vary from camera to camera but most have some sort of accessory made for them. The other way of taking shots without touching your camera is to use the self timer. This can work but you really need to be able to anticipate shots well and its very very hit and miss

3. Framing Your Shot

One of the most difficult parts of photographing fireworks is working out where to aim your camera. The challenge you’ll face in doing this is that you generally need to aim your camera before the fireworks that you’ll be photographing goes off – anticipation is key. Here are a few points on getting your framing right.

Photo by Stuck in Customs

• Scope out the location early – Planning is important with fireworks and getting to the location early in order to get a good, unobstructed position is important. Think about what is in the foreground and background of your shots and make sure you won’t have people’s heads bobbing up into your shots (also consider what impact you’ll have on others around you also). Take note of where fireworks are being set up and what parts of the sky they are likely to be shot into – you might also want to try to ask some of those setting up the display for a little information on what they are planning. Also consider what focal lengths you might want to use and choose appropriate lenses at this time (rather than in the middle of the show).
• Watch your Horizons - One thing that you should always consider when lining up fireworks shots is whether your camera is even or straight in it’s framing. This is especially important if you’re going to shooting with a wide focal length and will get other background elements in your shots (ie a cityscape). Keeping horizons straight is something we covered previously on this site and is important in fireworks shots also. As you get your camera on your tripod make sure it’s level right from the time you set up.
• Vertical or Horizontal? – There are two main ways of framing shots in all types of photography, vertically (portrait) or horizontally (landscape). Both can work in fireworks photography but I personally find a vertical perspective is better – particularly as there is a lot of vertical motion in fireworks. Horizontal shots can work if you’re going for more of a landscape shot with a wider focal length of if you’re wanting to capture multiple bursts of fireworks in the one shot – but I don’t tend to go there that often.
• Remember your framing – I find that when I photograph fireworks that I spend less time looking in my viewfinder and more looking at the sky directly. As a result it’s important to remember what framing you have and to watch that segment of the sky. Doing this will also help you to anticipate the right time for a shot as you’ll see the light trails of unexploded rockets shooting into the sky.

4. Focal Length?

Photo by asmundur

One of the hardest parts of photographing fireworks is having your camera trained on the right part of the sky at the right time. This is especially difficult if you’re shooting with a longer focal length and are trying to take more tightly cropped shots. I generally shoot at a wider focal length than a tight one but during a show will try a few tighter shots (I usually use a zoom lens to give me this option) to see if I can get lucky with them. Of course zoomed in shots like the one to the left can be quite effective also. They enable you to really fill the frame with great color. Keep in mind however that cropping of your wider angle fireworks shots can always be done later to get a similar impact in your photography.

5. Aperture

A common question around photographing fireworks displays is what aperture to use. Many people think you need a fast lens to get them but in reality it’s quite the opposite as the light that the fireworks emit is quite bright. I find that apertures in the mid to small range tend to work reasonably well and would usually shoot somewhere between f/8 to f/16.

6. Shutter Speed

Photo by *vlad*

Probably more important to get right than aperture is shutter speed. Fireworks move and as a result the best photographs of them capture this movement meaning you need a nice long exposure. The technique that I developed when I first photographed fireworks was to shoot in ‘bulb’ mode. This is a mode that allows you to keep the shutter open for as long as you hold down the shutter (preferably using a remote shutter release of some type). Using this technique you hit the shutter as the firework is about to explode and hold it down until it’s finished exploding (generally a few seconds).

You can also experiment with set shutter speeds to see what impact it will have but I find that unless you’re holding the shutter open for very long exposures that the bulb technique works pretty well.

Don’t keep your shutter open too long. The temptation is to think that because it’s dark that you can leave it open as long as you like. The problem with this is that fireworks are bright and it doesn’t take too much to over expose them, especially if your shutter is open for multiple bursts in the one area of the sky. By all means experiment with multiple burst shots – but most people end up finding that the simpler one burst shots can be best.

7. ISO

Photo by Mr Magoo ICU

Shooting at a low ISO is preferable to ensure the cleanest shots possible. Stick to ISO 100 and you should be fine.

8. Switch off your Flash

Shooting with a flash will have no impact upon your shots except to trick your camera into thinking it needs a short exposure time. Keep in mind that your camera’s flash will only have a reach of a few meters and in the case of fireworks even if they were this close a flash wouldn’t really have anything to light except for some smoke which would distract from the real action (the flashing lights).Switch your flash off.

9. Shoot in Manual Mode

I find I get the best results when shooting in manual exposure and manual focus modes. Auto focusing in low light can be very difficult for many cameras and you’ll end up missing a lot of shots. Once your focusing is set you’ll find you don’t really need to change it during the fireworks display – especially if you’re using a small aperture which increases depth of field. Keep in mind that changing focal lengths will mean you need to need to adjust your focusing on most lenses.

10. Experiment and Track Results

Photo by y entonces

Throughout the fireworks display periodically check your results. I generally will take a few shots at the start and do a quick check to see that they are OK before shooting any more. Don’t check after every shot once you’ve got things set up OK (or you’ll miss the action) but do monitor yours shots occasionally to ensure you’re not taking a completely bad batch.

Also experiment with taking shots that include a wider perspective, silhouettes and people around you watching the display. Having your camera pointed at the sky can get you some wonderful shots but sometimes if you look for different perspectives you can get a few shots that are a little less cliche and just as spectacular. Most of the best shots that I’ve seen in the researching of this article have included some other element than the fireworks themselves – whether it be people, buildings, landmarks or wider cityscape perspectives.

Remember our christmas deal this november- one photo shoot and 30 christmas cards and a A4 print to put on your wall £75 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Only from jumer photography, Gloucester’s number one photographers !!!!!!!!!

Taking action photos of your pet this winter can be harder than you first think but here are a few pointers to help you out.

1. Make sure you wrap up warm.

You have to be patent when taking photos of pets so you might be out in the cold for a while.

2. Get your pet interested.

To get good action shots of your pet then use something that interests them such as a ball or food or just running to you after a partner or friend holds them.

3. Eye level.

Get down to there eye level and you will find you will connect with your pets much easier and your photos will start looking professional.

4. Camera speed

The camera must be on a fast shutter setting as your pets will move fast so crank up the ISO or use flash to make the exposure quicker and to freeze the motion.

5.practice makes perfect.

It takes practice to take a good photo and pet photography is no exception try things out then review your work and see where you are going wrong and then sort it out and try again.

jumer photography are portrait, wedding, boudoir photographers based in Gloucester, try us for a photo-shoot of your pet this christmas to put on your christmas cards to send out to people from only £75 for 30 cards and the photo-shoot.

Tell a story

Every Halloween costume tells a story. Make sure you capture it.

Show your little angel turning into a little devil, ghost, princess, clown – or whatever costume they dream up. Take pictures throughout the transformation – from the same angle, if possible. This will allow you to create an interesting photo book later on.

Keep your camera handy, you never know when the perfect trick-or-treat moment will occur. The Kodak EasyShare Sport is water-proof and dust-proof so you need not worry about breaking your camera and is perfect for capturing those apple-bobbing moments.

Move in close

To create impactful pictures, move in close and fill your viewfinder or LCD with the subject.

Step in close or use your camera’s zoom to emphasise what is important and exclude the rest.

Check the manual for your camera’s closest focusing distance. If you are closer than that distance, use the camera’s macro or ‘flower’ mode to get a sharp close-up.

Act the part

Ask your child to get into character when you snap your pictures. Have your Witch casting a spell or your little Devil striking his most evil pose.

Add some action to your shots. Get your child to move in her costume – your ballerina can pirouette, and your pirate can show off his swashbuckling skills.

Create a ghostly picture

Know someone who doesn’t believe in ghosts? Create photographic proof – create a ghostly picture using your own camera. The results are frighteningly good.

Set the camera exposure to 8 seconds.

Have the subject remain in the shot for 5 seconds, then duck out.

This will create a double exposure, making their image appear transparent.

Experiment with this technique – try having the subject move VERY SLOWLY as you photograph them, this will give the appearance of a ghost on the move.

Capture the mood

Halloween is a spooky good time, use the warm glow of late afternoon or the glow of a pumpkin to create the right mood.

When dusk falls, try turning off the flash (see the owner’s manual if you don’t know how) and take a few Pictures. Hold the camera very steady or use a tripod to avoid blur from the slow shutter speed needed to get a low-light picture.

Take a photo of your kids against the sky to create a cool silhouette effect or use the light from the pumpkin to give a spooky glow to your child’s face.

Set your camera right for night

Most of your Halloween photos will be taken at night, so switch to night mode to make the most of the available light. Night mode adjusts the camera settings for low-light conditions, allowing for a slightly longer exposure.

On Kodak cameras, there are two night modes. Night Portrait should be used to take pictures of people or animals. Night Landscape should be used for scenery or shots of people far away.

When photographing in low light, images are prone to camera shake. To avoid blur, press the shutter button gently and smoothly or use a tripod for these shots. You can also use self-timer mode to minimize the chance of shaking the camera as you take the picture.

Don’t forget the pumpkin

Carving a bigger opening for eyes or mouth on your pumpkin will cast more light, giving you a better photograph. The bigger the pumpkin, the bigger the holes!

Once carved, capture the eerie glow of your pumpkin. Turn off your camera’s flash and let the natural orange light take over. When photographing in low-light without a flash, your camera’s shutter will stay open longer. This means that to avoid blur, you have to keep the camera very still. Use a tripod for extra sturdiness.

If the glow from the pumpkin isn’t enough, play around with other available light. Try turning on porch lights or lamps in adjacent rooms. You can also ask a helper to shine a flashlight ON your pumpkin like a spotlight.

Also try taking the picture outside around dusk to take advantage of natural light and set the perfect mood.

Jumer photography for all of your photography and videography needs this halloween.

If you had the opportunity to view your great grandparents wedding album or the wedding video what one would you choose? Personally I would chose video just because it is animated and you can get a real feel of the day from it, but I also believe in the power of the photo as well, but when it comes down to it videography wins for me as a long term investment to pass down to children, as it really is a 3D way of viewing a wedding. Answers on a post card to www.jumerphotography.com

Wedding photo and video for that natural look to the day.

Photographic Style – Are the images that you are shown, what you would like to see? There are “buzz” words flying about everywhere about photojournalism, formal, classic candid, and so on. Do you want a mixture of black and white or only colour photos?

Truth in Advertising – Is this the photographer that will be photographing your wedding or will they send in whomever is available. Don’t be shocked, this happens more often than you can imagine. Be certain that you know which photographer is going to be there and that you see HIS/HER work and meet with that individually face to face.

Personality – Is the photographer that you meet someone that you can get along with? Is the “chemistry” there?

Price Range – Although, the last thing you want to do is shop by price, is this person within your budget? If not, is he or she worth the price difference? Make sure you understand what everything costs, including reprints and albums.

Delivery – How long does it take to get your proofs back, thank you cards, your finished album, your bridal portrait, etc.?

Offering – Whether it’s a la carte or a package, do you understand what you are getting? Is there any room for changes and will it cost to do so? Sometimes the packages are fixed, sometimes they can be customized, in any case, ask. How much time will he/she spend? What if you need more time? Make sure that you know what’s coming.

Contract – Do you understand the contract. Is it fair? Is everything spelled out? When it comes down going to court, only what is WRITTEN really counts, not what was promised. Make sure that you have no doubts before signing. Read it ALL.

What about deposits and payments? What does it say about cancellations and the photographer not being there? If the photographer protests, ask him why? This is one area NOT to take lightly. You could be disappointed for a long time.

References – A personal reference is always the best and people love to talk. Get a list of references from the photographer and check them out personally. A photographer who doesn’t have references or is afraid to give them to you may not be the person that you need to hire.

Other Questions: (some questions may be repeated from the list above)

• Have you shot a wedding at my location before?
• Do you have an assistant?
• Do you have backup equipment and is it the same quality as the primary equipment?
• What time will you begin and how long will you stay until?
• When will the proofs be ready?
• Do we get to keep the proofs?
• Do you mark your proofs?
• Where and how are your proofs marked?
• Do you work well with the other vendors? i.e.: coordinators, caterers, videographers.
• Can you work from a photo checklist that we create?
• How will you be dressed?

What goes on the all important contract?

• The name of your photographer
• The number of proofs you will view in order to pick your enlargements and/or keep
• The description of the package you ordered
• A list of guaranteed prices for enlargements. If they have a brochure with prices then get the photographer to write down that the prices on the brochure they gave you are the prices that you will be charged.
• The cutoff date for these brochure prices.
• All additional charges, services, taxes, travel, etc… Get the exact cost on the contract.
• An explanation of what happens if your photographer doesn’t show up.
• The date and deposit amount and how much is still owing.
• Your name, address and phone number. The names and addresses of the ceremony and reception locations.